Fibre guide

Elastane

Elastane is a synthetic elastic fibre mainly used to add stretch and recovery to fabrics. It is usually blended in a relatively small percentage with other fibres such as cotton, polyester, viscose or polyamide. This can make a fabric more comfortable to move in and help it return more effectively towards its original shape after stretching.

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Elastane fibre and stretch fabric
Fibre typeSynthetic elastic fibre
Also known asSpandex; Lycra is a brand name
PropertiesHighly stretchy with good recovery
UseUsually used in small percentages in fibre blends
ApplicationsFashion, sportswear, lingerie and stretch fabrics
The fibre

What is elastane?

Elastane is a synthetic fibre with very high elasticity. The fibre can be stretched considerably and then largely return towards its original length. Internationally, elastane is also commonly known as spandex.

Lycra is not a generic fibre name, but a well-known brand name for elastane. In the textile trade, the terms elastane, spandex and Lycra are often used interchangeably, although only elastane and spandex are generic terms.

Why is elastane added to fabrics?

Elastane is usually combined with other fibres to provide greater freedom of movement, a better fit and recovery. Even a relatively small percentage can make a noticeable difference to comfort and stretch, depending on the fabric construction and yarn used.

What is the difference between 2-way and 4-way stretch?

2-way stretch means that a fabric stretches mainly in one direction, usually across the width of the fabric. 4-way stretch means that a fabric can stretch both across the width and along the length. This provides extra freedom of movement and is common in sportswear, leggings and close-fitting garments.

The terms 2-way and 4-way describe the direction of stretch in the fabric, not a property of elastane as a fibre by itself. The knit or weave construction, the yarns used, the elastane percentage and the finish all influence how much and in which direction a fabric stretches.

Variations by quality

Possible variations

Elastane contentFrom a small percentage to a higher stretch content
Direction of stretch2-way or 4-way stretch, depending on the construction
Common blendsOften blended with cotton, polyester, viscose or polyamide
RecoveryVaries by yarn, construction and finish
Important: the elastane percentage alone does not tell you exactly how much a fabric stretches. The actual stretch is also determined by the knit or weave construction, the direction of stretch, the base fibre and the finish of the product.
Use and selection

What is elastane used for?

Fashion & close-fitting clothing For trousers, dresses, skirts, tops and other garments where extra freedom of movement and a comfortable fit are desired.
Sports & activewear Many sports fabrics contain elastane to help the fabric move during intensive activity and return well towards its original shape after stretching.
Lingerie & swimwear Often used in lingerie, underwear and swimwear where fit, elasticity and recovery are important properties.
Jersey & stretch fabrics Often blended with cotton, viscose, polyester or polyamide in jersey, rib, punto and other stretch fabrics.
Selection advice: do not look only at the elastane percentage. Also check the direction of stretch, overall stretch, recovery, thickness, fabric construction and the remaining fibre content to assess whether a quality is suitable for your intended use.
Care

Care instructions

Pre-washing
Pre-washing Follow the care instructions for the complete fabric composition before sewing
Washing
Washing Wash according to the product care instructions and avoid unnecessarily high temperatures
Drying
Drying Avoid high drying temperatures to help preserve elasticity
Bleaching
Bleaching Only when permitted by the specific product care instructions
Good to know

Sewing and selecting

Heat Elastane can be sensitive to high temperatures. When ironing, pressing and drying, follow the product care instructions and test on a scrap first if necessary.
Direction of stretch Before cutting, check in which direction the fabric stretches most and take this into account when positioning pattern pieces.
Sewing For stretch fabrics, use a needle and stitch suited to the fabric construction and avoid unnecessarily stretching the fabric while sewing.
Recovery Not every stretch fabric recovers equally well. If relevant, test both the stretch and recovery before using the fabric for a close-fitting garment.
Wear Prolonged exposure to heat, chlorine, strong chemicals or intensive use may affect elasticity depending on the quality.
Product selection Always compare composition, elastane percentage, direction of stretch, overall stretch, recovery, weight, width and care instructions for each individual quality.
Common blends

Common fibre combinations

Elastane is almost always blended with other fibres. Cotton, polyester and polyamide are common base fibres in stretch fabrics, and each creates a different feel and set of performance properties.

Cotton fibre and cotton fabric

Cotton with elastane is widely used for comfortable stretch garments such as jersey, trousers and close-fitting basics.

Polyester fibre and polyester fabric

Polyester with elastane is common in sports, fashion and functional fabrics where shape retention and stretch are combined.

Frequently asked questions

Elastane in brief

What is elastane?

Elastane is a synthetic elastic fibre added to fabrics to increase stretch and recovery.

Is Lycra the same as elastane?

Lycra is a brand name for elastane. Elastane and spandex are generic fibre names; Lycra refers to a specific brand.

How much elastane does a fabric need?

This depends on the desired stretch, fabric construction and application. A small percentage can already provide noticeable stretch, but the percentage alone does not determine the overall stretch.

What is the difference between 2-way and 4-way stretch?

2-way stretch means that a fabric stretches mainly in one direction. 4-way stretch means the fabric can stretch both across the width and along the length. Always check the product specifications because direction of stretch and stretch percentage can vary by fabric.

Can elastane withstand heat?

Elastane is relatively sensitive to high temperatures. Always follow the care instructions for the specific fabric and be careful with high-temperature drying or ironing.

Does every fabric with elastane stretch the same amount?

No. The actual stretch is also determined by the base fibre, fabric construction, the direction of stretch, elastane percentage and finish.