Fabric Guide

Denim

Denim is a durable twill fabric best known for jeans. Its diagonal weave gives denim its characteristic appearance. It is available in lightweight, medium-weight and heavyweight qualities, both rigid and with stretch.

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Close-up of denim fabric with its distinctive diagonal twill weave

Fabric typeDenim

WeaveDiagonal twill weave

WeightFrom lightweight to heavy

StretchRigid or stretch

Suitable forClothing & accessories

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The Fabric

What is Denim?

Denim is a woven twill fabric, which creates the distinctive diagonal lines on its surface. Classic denim is often woven with coloured warp yarns and lighter weft yarns, so the face and reverse of the fabric can look different.

Not all denim is the same. Weight, fibre composition, stretch and finish determine how structured or flexible a quality feels and which applications it is best suited to.

Where does the name Denim come from?

The name denim is traced back to the French serge de Nîmes, meaning a serge-like fabric from the French city of Nîmes. The words de Nîmes eventually developed into the name denim. Today, the term is mainly used for the distinctive durable twill fabric associated with jeans and other garments.

Variations by Quality

Possible Variations

CompositionOften cotton or a fibre blend

TypeRigid or stretch

WeightLightweight, medium-weight or heavyweight

FinishingVaries by denim quality

Always check the individual product specifications for the exact composition, width, weight, stretch, colour and care instructions.

Uses & Selection

What is Denim used for?

Jeans & TrousersThe best-known use; choose the weight and stretch according to the style and desired comfort.

Jackets & OvershirtsMedium-weight and heavyweight denim gives outerwear structure and a robust appearance.

Skirts & DressesLighter or softer denim works well when more drape and freedom of movement are required.

Bags & AccessoriesHeavier qualities can be used for bags, aprons and other accessories.

Choosing the right quality: pay particular attention to weight and stretch. Lighter denim has more drape and works well for dresses, skirts and shirts; heavier denim gives more structure to jeans, jackets and accessories. For close-fitting garments, stretch denim can provide greater freedom of movement.

Care

Care Instructions

Pre-washing Often recommended before cutting, especially for cotton-rich denim

Washing Wash inside out and follow the individual product instructions

Drying Preferably air dry, or follow the individual product instructions

Bleaching Only when permitted by the individual product instructions

Good to Know

Sewing & Choosing

Possible Shrinkage Cotton-rich denim may shrink and change in appearance during the first washes.

Cutting Use sharp cutting tools and, with heavyweight denim, take care with the number of layers you cut at once.

Sewing Choose a needle suited to the denim weight and test stitch length and thread tension on an offcut.

Finishing Finish cut edges to reduce fraying and allow for extra bulk where several seam layers meet.

Bulky Seams Heavyweight denim can create several thick layers at hems and seam intersections; adjust the needle and machine settings accordingly.

Choosing a Quality Compare weight, composition, stretch, drape and finish for each denim quality.

Alternatives

Similar Fabrics

These fabrics can be alternatives based on durability, structure or application, but each has its own properties and appearance.

Corduroy→

A durable clothing fabric with a soft pile and distinctive lengthwise wales.

Canvas→

A robust woven alternative for accessories and projects where extra structure is required.

Wooltouch→

A soft clothing alternative with a wool-like appearance, suitable for trousers, skirts and jackets.

Frequently Asked Questions

Denim FAQs

Is Denim the same as jeans fabric?

In Dutch, denim is commonly called spijkerstof. In English, the standard fabric name is denim.

Is Denim always stretchy?

No. Rigid denim has little to no stretch. Stretch denim usually contains an elastic component, giving the fabric more flexibility.

Should Denim be pre-washed?

For many cotton-rich denim qualities, pre-washing is recommended if the finished item will later be washed. This allows potential shrinkage and changes in appearance to occur before sewing.

What is the difference between Denim and Jeans?

Denim is the fabric. Jeans are the well-known trousers traditionally made from denim; denim is also used for many other garments and accessories.

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