Crushed velvet, also known as panne velvet or Velours de Panne, is a soft velvet fabric with a smooth, lustrous surface. Its directional pile creates characteristic shifts between light and dark. Modern qualities are often fluid and stretchy and are widely used for occasionwear, costumes, dance and performance wear, and decorative applications.
Crushed velvet is a velvet fabric with a soft pile and a highly lustrous surface. During finishing, the pile is laid or pressed in different directions, creating its characteristic light-and-dark effect. This type of fabric may also be sold as panne velvet or Velours de Panne.
Crushed velvet does not have one fixed fibre composition. Modern qualities are often made from polyester and may be knitted and stretchy, but composition, weight, stretch and finish vary by product. Always check the specifications of the individual quality.
Where does the name Velours de Panne come from?
The word velours comes from French and ultimately relates to terms describing a hairy or downy surface. The French word panne is an old textile term for a light, soft velvet-like fabric and has historically been linked to the Latin penna, meaning “feather”. The expression panne de velours was used for a light, smooth and lustrous velvet quality. Modern Velours de Panne shares its soft pile and pronounced sheen.
Variations by Quality
Possible Variations
CompositionOften polyester; varies by quality
ConstructionOften knitted
SheenChanges with pile direction
Stretch & WeightVaries by quality
Important:always check the individual product specifications for the exact composition, width, weight, stretch, pile direction and care instructions.
Uses & Selection
What is Crushed Velvet used for?
Occasion & EveningwearFor dresses, skirts, tops and other garments where sheen and a striking appearance are desired.
Costumes & Fancy DressWidely used for costumes, fancy dress and carnival projects thanks to its eye-catching sheen and fluid handle.
Dance & Performance WearStretch qualities are suitable for garments that need to move with the body and catch the light on stage.
DécorAlso used for table décor, backdrops, venue dressing and other decorative applications.
Choosing the right quality:pay particular attention to stretch, weight, sheen and pile direction. A fluid quality works well for clothing, while décor may benefit from more body. Keep all pattern pieces running in the same pile direction.
Care
Care Instructions
Pre-washingNot normally required; follow the individual product care instructions
WashingWash only according to the individual product care instructions
DryingDry according to the product instructions; preferably avoid unnecessary heat
BleachingOnly when permitted by the individual product care instructions
Good to Know
Sewing & Choosing
Pile DirectionCrushed velvet has a clear pile direction. Cut all visible pattern pieces in the same direction, as sheen and colour depth can otherwise vary between pieces.
CuttingLay the fabric flat without tension. It can shift while cutting, so use sharp tools and avoid stretching qualities with elasticity.
SewingChoose a needle and stitch suited to the construction and stretch of the chosen quality. Always test the stitch, thread tension and handling on an offcut first.
StretchMany modern crushed velvet qualities are stretchy, but the amount of stretch and recovery varies by product. Take this into account when choosing patterns, seams and finishes.
PressingTake care with heat and pressure. Excessive pressure can flatten the pile and leave permanent marks. Follow the product instructions and always test on an offcut first.
Choosing a QualityCompare composition, weight, stretch, sheen, pile direction and care requirements for each crushed velvet quality. These properties can vary considerably between products.
Alternatives
Similar Fabrics
Nicky velour and lamé can be alternatives depending on the application, but differ clearly in construction, surface and appearance.
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